Identity Theft Solutions – File a Police Report

Throughout this process, you’re going to be faced by skepticism. Companies will want some kind of proof that you really are a victim, and not just some jerk trying to get out of paying your debts. A police report is the best proof you can offer, because creditors assume you wouldn’t file a police report unless you really meant it. (You wouldn’t, right? Don’t make us come over there!)

The problem is, it can sometimes be difficult to get the police to take you seriously, so you’ll have to be persistent. Explain that without a police report you have no way to stop the theft and repair your credit. Provide the police with copies of any documentation you already have, like your credit report, debt collection letters, or the ID Theft Affidavit. If the local police still refuse to help you, go to the county police, and then try the state police. If they say identity theft isn’t a crime in your state, ask to file a Miscellaneous Incident Report instead.

When you file the report, be certain that it lists every instance of fraud committed with your identifying information. And make sure you get a copy of it, so you can send copies to creditors. (When you do that, it’s also helpful to include the phone number of the investigating officer.) If you absolutely can’t get a copy of the police report, get the report number, and ask for a letter stating that the report couldn’t be given to you.

Identity Theft Solutions – Shut Down All Compromised Accounts

This means you pull the plug on both types of accounts—your old accounts the thief was misusing, plus any new accounts the thief opened in your name. Don’t forget that this could include credit card companies or service providers like your phone, ISP, or utilities. When you reopen your accounts, make sure you have a new account number, and guard it with a new password. (Use something only you could know—which is kind of the point of a password.) You can protect your rep by asking the creditor to classify the old account as “closed at customer’s request.” The other option—”Card lost or stolen”—can make you look careless, even though we know it wasn’t your fault.

If your ATM or debit card was stolen, the procedure is pretty much the same. Report the theft ASAP, cancel the card, and get a new card with a new PIN. If the identity thief stole checks, call the bank and stop payment on any outstanding checks you didn’t write. Then contact the check verification services so they can tell their retailers not to accept checks from the thief.

Closing accounts that were yours to begin with is pretty easy. The hard part is getting rid of the charges that you didn’t make, and closing accounts you didn’t ever open. Ask to speak to the fraud department of the bank, retailer, or credit card company. and find out what forms you need to dispute fraudulent charges and accounts. You may be able to use the ID Theft Affidavit—a standard form available online. Or you may need to use the company’s own forms. For now, go on record about everything you are disputing, and have the forms you need sent to you. Be sure to follow these calls up in writing to make things extra-official. If you’re dealing with a new account. get as much documentation about it as you can, such as a copy of the application used to open the account and transactions records.

If the creditor won’t give up the goods on your thief’s account. its probably because of their security policy—take a moment to laugh at the irony. Then keep trying. Getting the cops involved, or at least getting a police report, can help.

Identity Theft Solutions -Contact the Credit Bureau Fraud Departments

First things first, you need to get a fraud alert and a victim statement placed on your credit reports. The fraud alert is a signal to businesses that someone’s been doing nasty things with your identity. It will prompt a credit card company to be a little more careful next time “you” apply for a card. The victim statement is a word from you, and you want it to go something like this: “My identifying information has been used to commit fraud. Please call me at [insert your phone number] to verify all applications.” (Please note that fraud alerts and victim statements will make it more complicated for you to apply for credit—that’s the point! If it’s a hassle for you, it should be impossible for a thief.)

To make things less complicated, for once, one phone call will do the job of notifying all three credit bureaus. Call any one of the fraud departments listed below, tell them you are a victim, and ask for a fraud alert and victim statement. Once one credit bureau has your info, they’ll bring the other two up to speed. Fraud alerts will be placed on all of your credit reports, and you’ll receive a complimentary copy of each report. (When these arrive, check them carefully to make sure you’re aware of all the fraud that’s occurred.)

The “one-call” system only places fraud alerts and victim statements on your report for a short period of time—usually three to twelve months. To make it more permanent, seven years of permanence to be exact, you’ll need to write to each credit bureau separately and request a renewal.
Be careful, however: if your situation was minor and easily cleared up, you may not want a fraud alert on your record for seven long years, since the alert will make it harder for you to get credit when you need it.

Also, keep in mind that credit grantors abide by fraud alerts and victim statements on a voluntary basis only. So far, no law requires that they do so. This means it may still be possible for a thief to open accounts in your name, so continue to order your credit reports every three months for at least a year.